Tropical Storm Danny

With our latest storm sitting right off the coast here in Cape Hatteras, the expectations for severe weather have actually waned just a bit. Orignially, the storm predictions estimated the disturbance progressing into as high as a Category 2 hurricaine with chances of a direct hit to the Outer Banks areas. Things are still moody and rough, but not severe.

The storm has failed to strengthen into any appreciable threat. Unless you plan to enter the water. Of course, as wind/water junkies we (Kim, myself, and most of our friends) we fully intent to enter the water. All of the current warnings are for moderate to high rip current threat. The wind will not get much over 40mph and the storm swell is somewhere around 10 feet. Perfect conditions for 'playing in the water'.

If the wind direction turns, as is expected, to an offshore direction the surf should be quite nice for the next day as the swell peaks - it is mushy and blown out today. After surfing too many days in a row, and sometimes multiple times a day over the past 10 days, today was a much needed break. The waves were out there, but it was not as well organized and clean as I prefer. Yes I'm getting picky.

Towards the end of the day today the wind started to come up to a level high enough for kiteboarding. I decided not to go out as the predictions called for somewhat drastic changes to the direction and velocity. Besides, just looking at the stormy skies I could predict less than favorable conditions for kiting.

About the only rideable location for the SE winds today was the 'point' of Cape Hatteras. Yes. The little tip of land where the sandbar makes an almost 90 degree turn to the west and creates a south-facing shore. With the storm swell and wind direction kiters and wind surfers alike were taking advantage of what little riding there was. The waves were very disorganized and sloppy. Part of me was itching to get wet and ride the waves, but the other 99% of me was not in much of a hurry to get out there.

I was happy hanging out on the beach with my cameras and friends to watch as most of the kiters eventually slipped further and further downwind until they walked back up the beach. Besides, I'm saving my energy.

With the wind direction predicted tomorrow it should make for nice surfing. So it is off to bed for me... I need my rest. I haven't been this tired for this many days since performing long range patrols as a young Marine.

Aloha.

Surf and Photography

Two recurring themes at my new home away from home. Surf and Photography. I have been fortunate enough to have an abundance of both lately.

I have always admired photographer's work of the local area. I know a few that are practicing their trade sucessfully and their work is quite inspiring. Now, for myself, having the chance to shoot on Hatteras Island is something I really didn't fully appreciate until spending so much time here. Before moving here I would always bring my camera gear on our weekend trips and make myself shoot at least a few shots each day I visited.

However, there is nothing like being in the right place at the right time in order to get a nice shot. With me spending so much time on the island my odds of getting what I consider a nice shot has gone up dramatically. Today, while out for an evening surf after work with Kim and some friends I made sure to bring one of my cameras to the beach. I had a feeling I would find something interesting to shoot after my surf session.

Some of our friends were already in the water and others showed up as we were surfing. The surfing was a fun little wave about chest-high. Kim managed to paddle out through the break which is a big accomplishment for any aspiring surfer. I have always said surfing was the hardest sport I ever learned, and I participate in a lot of steep-learning-curve sports. So to see her progressing is pretty awesome.

As the surf died I came in to shore and pulled out my camera and sarted looking for material to unfold before me. It is amazing how much you can find when you start looking for it, and here, you really don't have to look hard.

After all of the years visiting this area, I am still amazed at the stunning sunsets. Never are two the same, and I never get tired of looking at them.

Aloha.

Surf, Surf, and more Surf

The past week or so on Hatteras Island has been a great time for playing on the water. With Hurricaine Bill passing by and sending some beautiful waves our way, and the nice dose of winds that have blown through on an almost daily basis, I have been surfing and kiting just about as much as I can stand.

Today, I surfed at the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The swell was anywhere from chest high to 1-2 feet overhead. A very fun wave. Here I am dropping into a baby wave - last ride of the day.

As I write this, I have a head full of salt water and bloodshot eyes... Souveniers from another awesome day of surfing. Today has rounded out my run of surfing 6 of the past 8 days. A few of those days I surfed twice a day. Others, I was surfing and kiting in the same day. It is a tough job, but someone gets to do it.

Now, about the business of the storm swell Bill sent our way. Last week, the surf starting building to a crescendo of waves hitting the shores this weekend at somewhere around 20 feet or so. All week leading up to the weekend you could feel the energy in the air and people were buzzing with anticipation. The roads were jammed with people entering and leaving the narrow island.

We only had one day of surf that was crazy-high. Thankfully, the other days were more normal. The waves were anywhere from knee high early in the week to well overhead towards the end of the week, but not quite what we call double-overhead - or, even triple-overhead.

Until this weekend. Saturday.

When waves get as big as they were this past Saturday it starts to become very tricky to paddle into the wave and catch it for a ride. This is where motorized assistance comes in. A technique called tow-in surfing is when a JetSki pulls the surfer along until the surfer can use the speed generated by the JetSki to 'drop in' to the wave and successfully ride.

I am quite thankful the waves were 'ginormous' for only one day. For that one day, I happily sat on the shore and deployed my photography equipment to capture some of the phenomenal action directly offshore. My surf photography is not something I get to practice very often, so I was thrilled when Kim and I spotted two skis towing surfers into waves yesterday.

Back when I started surfing (too many years ago to mention) I found myself paddling into quite a few storm swells here in the Outer Banks, so I have enormous respect for the kind of heavy water these guys were playing with. Never did I attempt to paddle into triple-overhead though. Of notable mention, there were paddle surfers out in the waves catching rides on Saturday.

Aloha.

Gone Surfing...

Yeah, many of my friends and family have wondered where I ran off to recently. No blog posts. No emails. Not even a text message from me. Well, I have been stranded on a small island.



That isn't exactly true, but close... I took a job in Cape Hatteras, NC. As most who know me know I like to play, a lot, and Kim and I do much of our playing on the sandbar known as Cape Hatteras.



As the story goes, I have been coming to this island for 40 years now. It started with me at 6 months old and my parents kayaking from island to island freely camping. I don't know all the details, but the story suggests that I (as in all of us) almost didn't make it back due to typical storm conditions for around here. Since then, learning to surf here as a young Marine helped solidify my bond with this area. Kiteboarding has taken over and now I have the opportunity to spend even more time here for my career.

I was lucky enough to find a position with a local kiteboarding company, REAL Watersports in Waves, NC, who has crossed over into surfing and stand up paddle boarding. The atmosphere, the people, and the mission of the company make it a great place to work and make part of my life. As a long-time surfer and now kiteboarder this is an awesome way to continue (and further) my career - and yes, have a teeny bit of fun while I'm at it.



Since taking the job on July 16th I have spent a lot of time on the water as well as behind my desk. The job is demanding but the rewards are commiserate. The job description is Technology Manager. A new direction for my career. A lot of things are new to me and I am enjoying the challenge of learning new areas of the Information Technology industry. I will primarily be working from Richmond, VA but during the beginning I am spending a lot of my time ramping up at the office.

So my lifelong dream of becoming a surf bum is finally being realized. Kim and I have a 'cozy' little camper parked at a marina where things feel just like home. It is a bit tough sometimes with Kim being back and forth between Richmond. However, as I start to work from Richmond more we should be able to develop a manageable schedule.



To date, things have been a little hectic for Kim and I. Setting up some sort of domicile on the island, taking the new job, being apart, keeping our house in Richmond going, meeting new friends. It all adds up. Luckily, at the end of the day we have each other and get to go surfing, or kiteboarding, stand up paddle boarding, kayaking, or having a sushi picnic on the beach enjoying a beautiful sunset.

Thanks and much love to Kim for being the amazing wife I am still wondering how I deserve. She has done so much to make this happen. Always supportive of me, and enjoying the lifestyle we built for ourselves as much as I do.


Aloha.